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Resistance is futile, except sometimes it’s not.

Theres that age old rule that 500k pots are better suited to humbuckers as they let a bit more treble through and 250k are better on single coils as they kill off a bit of the shrillness. So what do you do on guitars that have a mix of both humbuckers and single coils ?

You can get the best of both worlds by “tricking” your 500k pots into being 250k pots. I’m not going to bore you with the science ( Google it if you are interested ) but in our good old quick and dirty fashion we are just going to show you how to do it and throw in the quick explanation that running the 500k resistance of the pot in parallel with the 500k of another resistor switched in it’ll drop the resistance of the 500k pot by half giving you 250k.

You just need to use a 500k push pull volume pot with a 500k resistor wired into the switch so that when you pop the switch up the pot “thinks” its a 250k pot and in the down position it’s just it’s plain old self at 500k. The pot will sound darker in the up position killing off some of the treble responses and making your single coil, or tapped humbucker, sound a little bit sweeter.

Its also a handing trick for quickly swapping tone at the push of a switch.

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3 way lever switches with 8 connection lugs explained

Following on from yesterdays outpourings over the mysteries of the 5 way lever switch I thought I had better also offer up an explanation for the way the 3 way levers work as well.

Physically they look identical to the 5 way lever switches, although we supply ours with a Tele style knob, and again have a row of 8 connection lugs along the bottom edge. Again these switches have two separate banks of 4 lugs that interconnect in various different switch positions. Ive cheated in that the below photo is yesterdays 5 way switch but for sake of explanation in this blurb they look the same.

3 way 8 lug lever switch connections explained by Warman Guitars
5 way 8 lug lever switch connections explained by Warman Guitars

For wiring one of the switches up as a Telecaster type 3 position switch that selects neck, neck and bridge, or bridge on its own we only need to wire up as shown below.

Below is a diagram of what is happening inside the switch, positions are denoted as Position 1 being the switch as viewed in the above photo with the switch arm thrown to the left Position 3 being the switch arm thrown to the full right and for those dullards amongst you ( I am grinning as I write that so don’t be too offended ) Position 2 is with the switch arm in the middle.

So to connect it up as 3 position selector on a 2 pickup Tele type guitar you just need to.

Solder small jumper wires between lugs 2 and 3, another between 4 and 5, and yet another between 6 and 7.

Solder an output wire from lug 4 to the input lug on your volume pot.

Solder the positive + wire from the bridge pickup to lug 3

Solder the positive + wire from the neck pickup to lug 6.

Thats it – jobs a good ‘un.

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5 way lever switches with 8 connection lugs explained.

And now onward to demystify the not so complex world of all those connection points on the bottom of 5 way import lever switches. Be warned not a lot of tech speak used. These switches are used on 3 pickup guitars to give you the classic 5 tonal combinations of bridge pickup on its own, bridge and middle pickups on together in parallel, middle pickup on its own, middle and neck pickups on together in parallel and lastly neck pickup on its own. For the sake of this explanation the bridge pickup is referred to as POSITION 1 and neck pickup is in POSITION 5 .

We are also going to refer to the connection lugs as either SIDE A ( shown left in the photo ) and SIDE B

Although there are 8 connection lugs racked up across the bottom of the switch you need to be thinking of this as two separate banks of 4 lugs that do not connect to each other. So whilst the 4 pins on the left hand side ( SIDE A ) connect up with each other in various switch positions and the 4 pins on the right ( SIDE B ) connect up with each other in various switch positions each side of the switch works independently of the other.

These types of switches operate on the same basis as the old fashioned Strat 4 lugs per side with its just that all the connectors are inline o e bottom edge of the switch.

The diagram below shows which lugs are connected when the switch is in various positions.

To wire one of these switches up in the traditional 3 pickup Start type switching arrangement goes as follows.

First thing you need to do is solder on a small jumper wire that connects the two middle lugs ( 4 and 5 ) so that both sides of the switch now physically connect up a common feed out. You then wire these two lugs up to the input lug of your volume pot ( assuming you are using just the one volume pot as in a Strat )

Now you hook your 3 pickups into the switch by soldering each of the hot / plus / positive – whatever you care to call them – wires into SIDE A of the switch in the position shown so…….

Neck positive wire goes to input lug 1

Middle positive wire goes to input lug 2

Bridge positive wire goes to input lug 3

SIDE B of the switch is where you take the fees out for whichever pickups you want to have tone controls. Typically Strat type arrangements tend to have tone controls on the neck and middle pickup and the bridge doesn’t have any tone control. I’ve shown all the 3 outputs so that you can choose which have tone controls.

If you want just the middle and neck pickups to have tone controls then obviously you don’t need a wire out for the bridge. There are other possibilities, if you wanted the neck pickup to have its own independent tone control but have the middle and neck share a tone control then you’d take the feed for the neck tone from lug 6 and then, to keep the spaghettification to a minimum, you’d run a jumper wire between lug 7 and 8 with a wire out to the other tone pot.

Thats all there is to it really. Told you it wasn’t that complicated.

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How to wire a phase reversal switch into your guitar pickups.

An easy modification to get more tones out of your pickups is to wire in a phase reversal switch. This basically swaps over the signals from your hot and ground wire. A pair of pickups are wired “in phase” where they work in tandem adding to each others signal. When you reverse this signal they start to work against each other “ out of phase” and produce a thinner more trebly tone.

The further the pickup coils are away from each other the better, so this works best for neck and bridge positions. If you tried to do it on the two coils on the same humbucker, putting them out of phase with each other all you would acheive is a very thin, cancelled signal with a massive volume drop. Only one of the pickups needs to be wired with a phase reversal switch. Wiring two pickups this way would acheive nothing . Reversing the signal on both pickups would put them back in phase. End result – zilch tone change.

If you are planning on doing this on a 3 pickup guitar, like a Strat with 3 single coils fitted, then put the phase reversal switch ion the wiring of the middle pickup so that you can have positions 2 and 4 usable with it.

You can use either a standard toggle switch for this mod or a push pull potentiometer.

Its a fairly easy wiring job. First solder the two criss cross wires. Next solder the leads from your pickup to the two end pins of the switch. Finish off by soldering your output wires to the two pins in the middle. Then these two output wires go to your other guitar circuitry.


Job Done !

You can find push pull potentiometers for this job here

Suitable for either single coil or humbucking pickups.
Double Pole Double Throw ( DPDT ) 2 position switch wired for phase reversal.
Diagram shows the view from the underside of the switch body.